How much does it cost to replace windows?
Most homes land near $600 to $900 per window installed. Here is what the price actually contains, and where a cheaper quote is hiding a different job.
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The numbers at a glance
- Typical cost per window
- $600 – $900 installed
- Full range per window
- $330 – $1,300
- Whole house, 10 windows
- $6,000 – $13,500
- Share that is labour
- 25 – 35%
- Lead time after ordering
- 4 – 12 weeks
What replacement windows actually cost
Window pricing is quoted per unit, installed, and the spread between the cheapest and the most expensive option is roughly four to one. The material decides most of that spread; the number of panes decides the rest.
A standard vinyl double-hung, the most common replacement in the country, sits near $550 installed. Fibreglass and wood climb from there, and any window that is wider than it is tall — a picture, bay or bow — needs more frame and more labour.
Do not price a whole house from a per-window average alone. Two-storey walls, ladder work, lead paint on pre-1978 homes and rotten sill plates all add line items that a per-unit figure cannot show.
Installed cost per window, 2026 national averages
| Window type | Installed cost | What sets the price |
|---|---|---|
| Vinyl double-hung | $330 – $700 | The volume product: welded frame, sealed glass unit, minimal maintenance |
| Aluminium | $300 – $800 | Cheapest frame, poor thermal break; common in warm climates |
| Wood double-hung | $600 – $1,200 | Repairable and paintable, but needs repainting every few years |
| Fibreglass | $700 – $1,400 | Stable in heat and cold, no painting; the premium long-life choice |
| Picture or fixed | $400 – $1,200 | No operating hardware, so fewer parts and fewer failures |
| Bay or bow | $1,000 – $4,000 | Several units, a projecting frame and roof, plus framing work |
Prices include the unit, installation, basic interior trim and haul-away. They exclude permit fees, lead-safe work and repairs to the wall opening.
Where the money goes
Roughly half of a replacement window invoice is the product itself. That surprises homeowners who compare a quote against the price of a window on a shelf — a shelf unit is not the same thing as a measured, installed, flashed and trimmed unit.
Share of a typical per-window price
| Component | Share | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Window unit | 45 – 55% | Frame, sashes, insulated glass unit, hardware, screen |
| Installation labour | 25 – 35% | Removal, setting, shimming, insulating, sealing, trim |
| Flashing and exterior work | 5 – 10% | Sill pan, head flashing, house wrap, exterior caulk |
| Interior trim and paint | 5 – 10% | Casing, stool, apron, putty and touch-up |
| Disposal and permit | 3 – 5% | Hauling the old units, local permit fee |
A quote that is 40% below the others usually moves one of these lines to zero — most often flashing and trim.
- Glass: a double-pane low-E unit with argon is standard; triple pane and laminated glass add cost per unit.
- Frame material: vinyl is the cheapest that performs, fibreglass the most stable, wood the most repairable.
- Opening condition: rotten sills, cracked plaster and water damage behind the old frame are found, not predicted.
- Access: a second-storey window with a steep roof below it takes longer and costs more to install safely.
- Lead-safe work: any home built before 1978 needs certified handling and containment.
A worked example: nine openings in a 1970s colonial
This is the shape of a typical whole-house job: eight double-hung windows on the front and side, plus one picture window over the sink. The house was built in 1974, so lead-safe work applies.
Eight double-hung plus one picture window, vinyl, installed
Priced at national averages, with the opening repairs the homeowner could see before work started.
- 8 vinyl double-hung windows$560 each installed, low-E argon, double pane
- $4,480
- 1 picture windowFixed unit over the kitchen sink
- $950
- Lead-safe prep and containmentPre-1978 home, certified crew, disposable sheeting
- $650
- Interior trim and sill repairTwo sills replaced, casing re-run in three rooms
- $480
- Exterior wrap and flashingHead flashing and sill pans on nine openings
- $620
- Disposal and haul-awayNine old units removed
- $220
- PermitLocal window replacement permit
- $140
$7,540 — about $838 per opening
Hold back a 10% contingency ($754) for damage found behind the old frames, and budget $8,294. That is still inside the national project range of $3,436 to $11,837.
Pocket replacement versus full-frame replacement
The single most common reason two quotes differ by thousands of dollars is that they describe two different jobs. A pocket replacement slides a new unit inside the existing frame. A full-frame replacement removes the frame, the sash and often the interior trim, then rebuilds the opening.
Neither is wrong. A pocket replacement is the right call when the existing frame is sound and the trim is staying. A full-frame job is required when the frame is rotten, when you are changing the size of the opening, or when you want new exterior trim and a proper sill pan.
The two jobs, compared
| Pocket replacement | Full-frame replacement | |
|---|---|---|
| Existing frame | Kept | Removed and replaced |
| Typical cost per window | $330 – $800 | $600 – $1,300 |
| Interior trim | Usually reused | Replaced |
| Opening repairs | Not possible | Sill and framing repaired |
| Best when | Frame sound, size unchanged | Rotten frame, new size, new trim |
Ask which of the two a quote describes before comparing totals. A cheap quote is often a pocket job priced against a full-frame one.
Where the savings come from — and where they do not
Windows are sold on energy savings, and the honest version is modest. Replacing single-pane windows with double-pane low-E units cuts heat loss through the glass significantly, but glass is only one part of a house that also loses heat through the attic, the walls and air leaks.
The realistic outcome for a whole-house replacement is a 10% to 25% reduction in heating and cooling cost — meaningful, but rarely enough to pay back a $8,000 job on energy alone within the life of the windows.
The honest reasons to replace windows are comfort, noise, condensation, operability and appearance. Those are worth paying for. A payback calculation on energy alone usually is not.
- Look at the U-factor first: lower is better, and it matters most in cold climates.
- Check the solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) on south and west glass — a low number helps in cooling-dominated states.
- Air sealing around the frame often saves more than the glass upgrade, and it is included in a proper install.
- Attic insulation is usually cheaper per dollar saved than window replacement. Do that first if the budget is tight.
- Any tax credit or utility rebate is worth checking before you sign; eligibility depends on the unit and the state.
How long a window replacement takes
The work itself is fast. The waiting is measurement, manufacturing and scheduling.
Measure and order
1 – 2 days
Every opening measured individually; nothing is ordered from a plan.
Manufacturing lead time
4 – 12 weeks
Standard vinyl runs a month; custom colours and shapes run a season.
Installation
1 – 2 days
Nine openings is a comfortable two-day job for a two-person crew.
Trim, insulation and paint
1 – 2 days
Casing, stool, putty, caulk and touch-up paint.
Inspection and punch list
1 week
Where the jurisdiction requires it, plus a walk-through for operation and locks.
Total from signature to finished job: six weeks to four months, driven almost entirely by lead time.
The six most expensive window mistakes
Each of these is common, and each one is visible in hindsight on the invoice.
Comparing a pocket quote to a full-frame quote
They are different jobs. Line up the scope before you compare totals, or you will pick the cheaper job and get the cheaper result.
Choosing on U-factor alone
In a cooling climate, a very low solar heat gain coefficient matters more than the U-factor. The right specification depends on which way the window faces.
Skipping the head flashing
A window is watertight only if water above it is directed away. Caulk alone fails within a few seasons and the damage appears inside the wall.
Ordering before measuring each opening twice
No two rough openings in an old house are identical. One mis-measured unit becomes a six-week reorder.
Hiring an uncertified crew for a pre-1978 home
Lead-safe work is a legal requirement, not an upgrade. Ask for the certification number before work starts.
Buying windows to save energy
Windows are a comfort and appearance purchase. Expecting them to pay for themselves on energy alone leads to disappointment and aggressive sales claims.
Before you sign a window contract
Work through this list with each bidder and keep the answers in writing.
- Confirm whether the quote is pocket replacement or full-frame replacement.
- Get the U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient for the exact unit quoted.
- Ask what happens to the interior trim: reused, replaced, painted by whom.
- Confirm flashing and sill pans are included, not optional extras.
- Check the lead-safe certification number if the house is pre-1978.
- Ask for the manufacturing lead time in weeks, in writing.
- Confirm the permit is pulled by the contractor, not by you.
- Agree the payment schedule — a large deposit before manufacturing is normal, full payment before punch list is not.
Put a number on your project
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Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to replace windows in a whole house?
A typical whole-house replacement of 10 windows runs about $6,000 to $13,500, with the national average project near $7,350. The figure moves with material, the number of openings and how much rot is found behind the old frames.
Is it cheaper to replace just the glass?
Glass-only replacement costs far less per opening, but it only makes sense when the frames and sashes are sound. On windows older than about 25 years the frame, balances and weatherstripping are usually at the end of their life, and new glass in a failing frame does not fix the draught.
How long do replacement windows last?
Vinyl windows typically last 20 to 25 years, wood 15 to 20 with regular painting, fibreglass 30 years or more, and aluminium 20 to 30 years. The glass unit itself often fails first, showing as fogging between the panes.
Do I need a permit to replace windows?
Many jurisdictions require a permit when the size of the opening changes or when the frame is replaced, and some require one for any replacement. Confirm with your local building department before work starts — the permit is usually a small fee and the inspection protects you.
Will new windows lower my energy bills?
Yes, but modestly. A whole-house replacement typically reduces heating and cooling cost by 10% to 25%. The bigger variables are attic insulation and air sealing, which usually cost less per dollar saved than windows do.
What is the best time of year to replace windows?
Spring and autumn are easiest because the house is open to the weather for shorter stretches. Winter installations are common and work fine — crews seal each opening as they go — but avoid scheduling during a cold snap if you can.
Where these numbers come from
Ranges are national averages for 2026 and assume a licensed contractor, a permit and a single crew. Local labour rates and material prices move the result.
Keep reading
All guidesHow much do Andersen windows cost?
Andersen sells the same frame material through three very different channels. The channel moves the price more than the window does.
How much do Pella windows cost?
Pella covers the whole market under one name: builder vinyl at the bottom, wood at the top. The series you pick matters more than the brand.
Comparing contractor quotes? Request free quotes and check them against your own estimate — all 27 calculators on the site are free.